Thursday, August 16, 2012

I’m impressed with Cayla and myself for consistently waking up on time in the wee hours of the morning.  We joined the sisters from Rosiena for morning prayer and mass.  After breakfast, Sr. Rosa took us to the United States Guadalcanal war memorial.  The memorial sits on the hill in Honiara and recounts the heroic fighting of the US Marines and Navy.  It was humbling to learn details about the battles and the sacrifices of both Americans and Japanese.  Cayla and I had driven through and stayed in places where battles and bombings took place during the war.  At the gate to the memorial, there was a book for visitors to sign.  People from all over the world have come to show their respect and pay tribute to the honorable deeds of thousands of men.

After our little excursion, we carefully packed gifts we received and bought for our families and friends, crossing our fingers that customs wouldn’t confiscate our treasures.  Laurel, the sisters’ English teacher from New Zealand, had Cayla and I do a little Q & A with the sisters at the end of their lesson.  We enjoyed lunch together, and then we were given more gifts.  I’ve been feeling uncomfortable when people give me things here.  I really appreciate the generosity and thought, but I feel so guilty accepting things from people who have nothing.  However, it is part of their culture to send a Solomon memory with visitors, so I will proudly wear and use everything that has kindly been given to me here.  

I drove to the airport in my new Solomon Islands tee shirt from the sisters.  Sr. Catie and Jennifer were waiting to say farewell.  The heat of the Honiara airport was suffocating.  We checked in and said goodbye to our friends.  We got our baskets and souvenirs sprayed at the quarantine desk.  The flight boarded on time, but didn’t leave for another half hour - surprise, surprise.  Since there was a delay, Cayla and I rushed through the Brisbane airport to catch our connecting flight to Sydney.  We ran off the plane and caught the train to the domestic terminal without a second to spare.  The two of us must have looked nuts (my neat cornrows were quite frizzy at this point) speeding through security and running to our gate.  We were in our seats just a few minutes before takeoff.  Whew. 

Christine and Rick Vosila were waiting for us in the airport.  It was a relief to see them, and felt like I was home.  We talked the whole ride home about some of the things we encountered.  At their house, I ate a sandwich.  It was heavenly.  While I chowed down, I watched tv with the Vosilas.  The Kardashians came on, and I seriously considered hopping on a plane back to Solomon Islands.  It’s unbelievable that two people are both humans and live in such a drastically different way.  I took a luxurious, hot shower and put on some fresh clean clothes.  It feels wonderful, but I already miss my Solomon family.

Lookim yu mao Solomon Islands!

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

After early morning mass and breakfast, Sr. Rosa, Cayla, and I went to visit our first friends in Solomon Islands - Sr. Catie and Sr. Stephanie in Tenaru.  We bumped along the familiar road and saw Sr. Catie waving out the door of the clinic.  We all congregated in the house, and Sr. Catie immediately scolded us for losing weight.  It was 10:30 a.m. and she made a full lunch for us.  Cabbage, rice, meat, potatoes, and cucumber.  I think we gained back anything we may have lost during that meal.  Our friend Jennifer stopped by the house for a quick visit before we returned to Rosiena.

When the sisters finished their English class, they took us to Central Market and a few stores to get last minute gifts.  Cayla and I got everything we needed and treated the group to ice cream.  It tasted delicious in the tropical heat of the city.  Yet again, we recruited another sister for exercise.  I showered then heard the voice of an angel.  Sr. Vero came to Honiara to visit us!  Cayla and I were so happy and excited to see her.  She filled us in on life in Visale.  The library is in use and looking good!  Students have been studying and taking books out.  It’s a great feeling to know that the work we did in the school is appreciated and being utilized.  

We joined the other sisters who live in Panatina house to celebrate Sr. Matrina’s feast day.  It was a feast, and the company for our last evening in Solomon Islands was wonderful.  Singing and dancing their way into the room, the sisters presented us with hats and Sr. Matrina with a gift.  Cayla and I spent a while speaking with Laurel, the English teacher from New Zealand.  It was late before we walked home again.  It’s hard to believe tonight is our last night in Solomon Islands.  The four weeks flew by!

Farewell Auki

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

It was an early morning wake up call for our departure.  I brought my bags into the living room before morning prayer.  Cayla and I shook hands with everyone after the service.  Richard gave me one of his drawings to be used for “Serengetee” fabric.  He’s an excellent artist and his work carries the flavor of the Solomons.  I’m excited to feature his work!  Phillip helped us get in touch with Liborio and joined our breakfast.  Soon we were in the truck and at the docks.  We arrived very early, so we got a good seat on the ship.  Ben, Ben’s nephew who is studying medicine in Cuba, and Father Julio traveled with us.  Fr. Julio was very entertaining. 

Liberio met us at the boat and gave Cayla and me our paintings.  Cayla’s is a picture of the chapel at Fanualama.  Mine has the image of a Solomon Island Mary and Jesus.  They are bright, colorful paintings with a distinct style.  It is quite a treasure.

Sr. Loretta, Sr. Matilda, and Agatha waited with us until the boat left.  It’s really hitting me now that we said goodbye.  The three of them are kind of people everyone loves to be around.  I will miss them so much.  When I hit lotto, I’m sending them plane tickets to America, and then I’ll return to Solomons with them forever.

The boat was hot, and the trip took six hours.  Luckily, the medication did the trick.  Cayla and I slept most of the way.  Sr. Maria and Sr. Mary Lewis met us in Honiara.  We drove to their home, Rosiena.  They have internet access at the house, so Cayla and I checked our emails.  They have fans in the bedrooms and a real bathroom.  I have no problem with the bucket shower, but water pressure from the shower head felt divine. We’re feeling very spoiled.  We had dinner together and got to watch a few clips of the Olympics.  I’m exhausted and looking forward to a comfortable sleep.  

Monday, August 13, 2012

Our last full day in Fanualama began like all the rest.  We celebrated mass together at 6:10 followed by a breakfast of navy biscuits and pineapple.  Cayla joined Sr. Loretta and I for the morning at Aligegeo.  During morning assembly, the two of us were called to the front of the dining hall.  The administration said thank you and we got to share a word of thanks with the students.  Cayla came to my classes with me.  I had the students play a few games - unscramble the words, word finds - and of course gave out the nutritious prize of cookies.  When I ran out of food, the students asked us questions and vice versa.  Cayla and I tried rapid fire questions, and we learned about the students’ goals after schooling, their favorite sports, number of siblings, and favorite foods.  It was an interesting dynamic because I am the same age as some of the students.  It would have been easier to be friends with them than act as their teacher, but everything worked out really well.  Cayla took two class photos for Form 4 Blue and Form 4 Yellow, one serious and one crazy.  Before I left each class, the prefects stood up and thanked me on behalf of their classmates.  I learned a lot about myself and the culture by working in Aligegeo, and I can only hope they learned a few English skills from me.

Cayla headed off to Kilu’ufi while I organized a few things in the staff room.  Sr. Loretta and I stopped home for a snack before catching the bus to town.  We had two major objectives: get sea sickness medication and refund our boat tickets.  The ship that was supposed to bring us to Honiara had mechanical issues so we made a few travel adjustments.  Luckily another boat had tickets available and is leaving tomorrow at 9 a.m.  We returned to Aligegeo for a thank you meal together with the staff.  We tracked down Cayla at Kilu’ufi by making several phone calls.  When she arrived, everyone gathered in the Home Economics room.  There was a spread of pineapple, cucumber, and biscuits.  The principal made a speech of appreciation.  Cayla and I then shared how much this experience has meant to us and expressed how important the teachers are in the students’ lives.  A teacher presented us with beautiful hand woven baskets, and a necklace, bracelet, and earrings set made in Lilisiana.  It was very generous of them, and I am so happy to have such a beautiful reminder of the people and experiences I have had at Aligegeo Secondary School.   

At home, Patrick helped Cayla and I with Pigin, using the iPad and app that Bro. Rob left with the community.  I learned a few key phrases: “mi lovim you,” (I love you)“mi baebol/mi carriem pikininny” (I am pregnant), and “Spaka!” (drunk).  We teased Sr. Matilda and Sr. Loretta with the last two for the rest of the evening.  We had some more fun showing Patrick and Agatha the wonders of photobooth.  It got to the point where we were falling off the hammock with laughter.  There is something about stretching, squeezing, and contorting your facial features that simply never gets old.  A fun house mirror may be in order for my apartment at school.  

Sr. Matilda gave Cayla and me a tour of her garden.  She grows tomatoes, cucumber, popo, casava, and pana.  It is very hard work weeding and clearing the bush daily.  Sr. Matilda spent the day making casava and coconut pudding for our “last supper.”  It is a labor of love, and we certainly appreciated her kindness.  I took a final “swim” in the cold shower before evening prayer.  It was only the sisters, Cayla and me, and two pickininnies to say the rosary.  But it was very appropriate that the four of us would pray together for our last night.  

We spent part of the night tracking down Liborio, who was making paintings for us.  We had no luck trying to contact him so just hoped we would get in touch with the artist in the morning. 

Dinner was delicious.  Chicken, fish, pudding, cabbage, cucumber, and sweet potato.  We abided by Sr. Matilda’s sarcastic mantra “eat more, exercise less.”  The sisters gave  us a necklace, bracelet, and earrings.  They also presented us with a gift for our mothers.  Agatha gave us lavalavas and gorgeous necklaces from Are’are in south Malaita.  Not only does every village have its own language and dances, it also has a distinct style of jewelry.  Necklaces from Are’are are long and have a large shell or bead.  My necklace has the swirl of a white shell, and I absolutely love it.  These three women have been a major part of my experience in Auki.  They are all selfless, welcoming, kind, loving, and hilarious in their own ways.  It’s hard to believe that I just met them, and harder to believe that it might be a very long time until I see them again.

Disciplining the class is clearly my forte

We played cards after cleaning up.  Agatha plaited my hair with cornrows while Sr. Loretta spoke every thought she had about her hand of cards.  The World Series of Poker is most definitely not in her future.  After finishing my transformation into full on Solomon Island woman with my hair, it was time to pack up.  I made piles of things I was leaving behind, and strategically packed with gifts I was given so they wouldn’t break.  It was late by the time I went to sleep.  It was a wonderful day in Fanualama to finish my first experience here.  I wish all of my family and friends could experience the beauty of the landscape and people I have encountered.  The world can seem so large and overwhelming until a few friendly faces make you feel at home in a place 9,000 miles away.

Buma

Sunday, August 12, 2012

I enjoyed every minute of sleep last night post madness in the dining hall.  At breakfast, Sr. Loretta gave us some very important details that everyone failed to inform us of.  Apparently the brothers who kicked the speakers and injured the teacher have a brother who is a teacher.  It’s against his religion to dance, so the teacher was upset that the school was allowing the students to dance.  Thus, he sent his brothers on a sort of mission to destroy the equipment.  In their attempt to ruin the speakers and computer, they hurt Lucy.  So that was the source of action that unfolded into a huge disaster.  Lucy was doing better today, icing her mouth and taking Motrin.

We walked and sang all the way to church, carrying our flower crowns and necklaces for the procession.  I was absorbed in every second of the mass.  The ceremony is so beautiful and the congregation takes such care to make it a special tribute.  The Aligegeo students sang like angels in the choir.  There were two processions with traditional music and dancing.  Fr. Moses said the mass because Bishop is traveling.  During the closing announcements, Cayla and I were called onto the altar.  Phillip and Simon presented each of us with a wooden cross inlaid with shells.  I love it, and the cross will serve as a perfect reminder of my time here.  There was kai kai (food) for the students after mass, so we joined our friends.  

I walked home to Fanulama with everyone.  We ate pancakes and peppers before our excursion to Buma.  Fr. Moses drove Cayla, Sr. Loretta, Sr. Matilda, Agatha and I to Buma, a village in the south.  It was a bumpy ride in the pickup truck to our pristine destination.  There is a church, school, clinic, and several religious communities where we stopped.  We met Daughters of Mary Immaculate sisters, and the Sisters of Charity.  The Sisters of Charity, founded by St. Vincent de Paul, are Croatian.  The three of them, Sr. Kathy, Sr. Martha, and Sr. Clare, arrived last year and all work as nurses in the clinic.  Their kindness was overwhelming.  They hugged us and held our hands and it was like they were squeezing love into my soul.  Sr. Kathy gave us rosary beads, which was so appropriate.  We pray the rosary every night and I don’t have my own beads here.  The rosary beads are from Medjugorje.  It is really special to have a token from these women who I only spent a few hours with.  It’s unbelievable how someone can affect your life significantly in the shortest span of time.  I would love to return to Buma some day.  

Cayla and I made fast friends with Pius (Pio), a little boy, who was full of energy and surprisingly not afraid of white people! He gave us a full tour in his birthday suit.  He collected a variety of sticks for me, showed us the baby Jesus in the church, and munched on beetlenut the whole time (so basically this 2 year old was high the entire time).  We also met Fr. Lorenz Samani, who spent six months in America during which he spent time at Kellenberg and at Providence.  Buma is on the water and the scene was picturesque.  All too soon, it was time to leave.  We said farewell to our new friends.  On the drive back, we belted the hymns out the window and Cayla captured the madness on her camera.  We just watched the videos and got instant six packs from laughing so hard.  Fr. Moses bought us each a soda on the way home.  

We exercised when we got back to Fanualama.  A whole crew joined us in the conference room.  Cayla and I finished preparing a dinner of breadfruit, eggplant, peppers, chili taiyo, and pineapple.  We invited Christina over for dinner.  All of us enjoyed ourselves and the meal.  Cayla and I gave Christina a gift for being so kind to us, and also it is her birthday on Tuesday.  We compiled a necklace from the market, one of my Serengetees, a skirt of Cayla’s, a few scrunchies, and a note.  

When she left, Cayla and I showed the sisters pictures of our family, friends, and home.  Then I had the brilliant idea of testing Photobooth out on them.  The camera distorted their faces and uncontrollable laughter ensued for the next hour.  Every shot is a gem, and if I am ever sad I will look at these ridiculous pictures.  

Feast of St. Clare

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Weekends are wonderful at Fanualama, and especially this one.  Today is the Feast of St. Clare, so it’s sort of like my birthday.  Bishop taught about her life during his homily this morning.  St. Clare lived in Assisi, Italy and enjoyed a comfortable life of luxury.  She heard St. Francis preaching and felt called to his lifestyle of poverty and prayer.  Against her family’s wishes, she cut her long, golden hair (I hope this wasn’t an implication that I should cut my hair) and joined the Franciscans.  Clare lived a life of prayer, and many people, including popes, would come to her for advice and spiritual guidance.  After mass everyone shook my hand and wished me a happy feast day.  The smallest things are appreciated and remembered here.

At 7:30 a truck load of people were driven to the market by Bishop Chris.  Traffic cops in the US would have a field day if they came here and saw how many people pile into vehicles.  I love it and make sure i get to sit in the bed of the truck every time.  Sr. Loretta, Sr. Matilda, Cayla and I took the market by storm.  When I think about using a shopping cart for about five items at home, I feel like a major diva.  Using two baskets and two plastics, we stocked the sisters up because we’ll be leaving Tuesday (trying not to think about it).  They should be set in the food department for the next decade.  We bought cabbage, cucumber, pineapple, ginger, breadfruit, taro, bananas, peanut butter, bread, pineapple jam, navy biscuits, chili sauce, taiyo, chicken, tea, and coffee.  It’s fun to shop with the sisters and let them go wild throwing things in the basket.  It’s a small gift for their tremendous generosity.  

Cayla and I stopped at Telecom on the way back.  We’ve been getting internet access about once a week, so I feel kind of important when I have a lot of emails.  But then I realize it’s mostly junk mail, and I’m brought back to reality.  After getting in touch with the world outside of this tiny Pacific island, we walked to the cathedral.  Aligegeo students were rehearsing for mass tomorrow.  We joined the practice and walked home with the crew afterwards.  During lunch, we discussed our ideas for giving back to the places we’ve visited.  Our favorite idea right now is to create a scholarship fund that Sr. Loretta will be in charge of.  Many students cannot pay their school fees and are often forced to drop out of school.  I think that it would be an effective way to support the people here if an monetary award was established.  Students can write an essay and submit their grades for consideration.  If it is done in this way, it will be something for them to earn and not a charity case.  Also, it’s hard to help some students and not others because most people here are struggling with finances.  

At 1:00, we left for our excursion to Liliciana.  A few of our new friends, Richard, Gabriel, Phillip, and George live there.  We wound around rugged roads, and I really felt like a local, although I definitely didn’t look like one.  Liliciana is right on the water, the houses are close together, and the road is sand.  It is absolutely beautiful, but clearly very poor.  We met Richard’s family, and sat outside his home on small benches.  His niece, Gema, was adorable.  It was nice to see where he lives.  Richard and the others who live in Liliciana wake up at 4:30 a.m., study until 5, then walk to Fanulama for morning mass. Every day.  

We walked through the village, past the sandy field where the kids play soccer with the new ball we bought Richard, and arrived at the lake.  Children were splashing around the lily pads, getting relief from the heat.  I went in the fresh water with Richard, Patrick, George, and a few girls.  We made necklaces with the white flowers to be used for the procession at mass tomorrow.  It was fun to make them and fun to just be with everyone.  They were singing and splashing, and a few little boys kept sneaking up on me with leaves covering their heads, trying to scare me.  Midway through my second necklace, the boys decided to tell me that crocodiles are in the water.  I figured that if I died right there, they could just use the flowers at my funeral - and they better look pretty.  So I finished my necklace before carefully going back to safety.  The group of us paraded around the streets decorated with flower crowns and necklaces.  At the main road, we said good-bye and split up to go north or south to our homes.  

We had a little bit of time to shower and relax before evening prayer.  Ben’s family welcomed Cayla and I to dinner to celebrate their nephew visiting home from Cuba, where he is enrolled in medical school.  The feast was very satisfying.  Sr. Loretta brought us to the Aligegeo talent show after dinner.  After a bunch of random and interesting acts performed, the teachers decided to play a few songs so the students could dance before bed.  And that’s when the fighting started.

***Mom and Dad, stop reading here***

There was a panel of teachers on the stage where the computer and speakers were set up.  Two brothers from North Malaita kicked the speakers over during the second song.  One of the large speakers hit Lucy, a favorite teacher who was holding her 6 year old daughter, square in the jaw and shoulder.  Chaos ensued as Lucy hobbled to the side of the room holding her mouth.  Boys started going after each other on the dance floor, and a small swarm formed around Lucy.  Sr. Loretta was shouting at the students and instilling some order.  I grabbed Lucy’s daughter Katie.  Patrick, Simon, and several boys related to Lucy quickly surrounded us and led us outside.  We all walked back to Sr.’s house together to check out Lucy’s injury.  Lucy is Sr. Loretta’s niece and also has cousins who attend Aligegeo.  On the walk back, we saw one of Lucy’s nephews.  He had a machete (apparently there are more purposes for them than chopping vines and bananas) and was planning to get revenge on the boy who shed the blood of his family member.  Sr. Loretta talked him down while Patrick and the other boys pushed him back to come with us.  One of Lucy’s other nephews tried to explain the situation with customs and rivalries to us.  For some people, when they see blood, it is their instinct and obligation to hurt the one who harmed their blood relative.  

Lucy’s injury wasn’t too bad.  She took Motrin, and since we didn’t have ice, we wrapped the frozen chicken in a towel and put it on her jaw.  Meanwhile, the troops assembled outside.  I delivered food to the boys, and when I walked out the door, the amount of people had multiplied exponentially.  All were related to Lucy somehow.  The boys who caused the trouble paid $100 to one of Lucy’s relatives so that the cousins would not go after them.  They agreed that the families from each group would decide a compensation price outside of school.  It’s a relief that no one was seriously injured.  The wantok system and family loyalties are fierce.  The people are very defensive of their family.  Sr. Loretta just got off the phone with Deputy and the two boys will receive their expulsion letters tomorrow.  She explained to me that no one at the school likes the brothers who caused the problem.  Lucy is from South Malaita, so the students from the south defend her.  She married a man from the north so most north Malaitans respect her.  The brothers were from an area of North Malaita, so they have students from the north and south extremely angry with them.  Regardless of blood ties, Lucy is a beloved teacher at school who really cares about her students.  This earns her the respect and admiration of everyone.

I wrote the first half of this blog post in the afternoon before the havoc.  Weekends have been wonderful, but tonight was a taste of reality.  While the culture of welcoming and entertaining is rich, the culture of violence and revenge when a family member is violated is fierce.

UNDP Speech Competition

Friday, August 10, 2012

I rolled out of bed exhausted, but ready for an exciting day.  Sr. Loretta and I hurried to get ourselves organized for the contest after mass.  The dining hall was beautifully decorated, and the Aligegeo students were prepared with their speeches and courage.  Over the course of the day, twenty-six speeches were given by secondary students on the eight goals of the UNDP (United Nations Development Project).  Distinguished guests were in attendance, and the event was a big deal.  Judges travelled from Honiara to sit in on the speeches.  It was difficult to sit still in the stifling room, but it was interesting nonetheless.  I admire the six students from Aligegeo who competed.  They worked diligently, and took great care to compose, review, and deliver their ideas.  I can’t imagine participating in a speech contest using my third language.  Christina won third prize for her talk on gender equality and women’s empowerment.  Belinda, a smiling, sweet Form 2 student, won second prize for the junior essay contest.  Both were very happy about their accomplishments.  

I got back home around 4:00.  I washed some clothes and showered before evening prayer.  A group of women are staying in Fanualama for the next week.  They travel to villages throughout the Solomons and speak with women about their own experiences as a Solomon woman while instructing on how to establish peaceful relationships in the home.  The program has expanded and adapted, covering a wide range of topics that are relevant to women.  Sheila is from New Zealand, and had lived in Solomon Islands for ten years while her husband did medical work.  Alice, Betty, and Immaculate are native to Malaita and run the workshops.  I had dinner with them at Bishop Chris’s house.  They are fascinating, and Cayla and I had endless questions for them - from bride price to their own marriages.  I look forward to spending time with them during my last few days here. 

Thursday, August 9, 2012

It was a busy day for everyone at Fanualama.  After simultaneously dancing and cleaning the breakfast dishes, I went to school with Sr. Loretta.  Donald, Sam, Chaniella, Angela, Angela, and Christina all rehearsed their speeches.  They are speaking about poverty, global partnership, and female empowerment.  We practiced in the dining hall, where the competition will be held tomorrow.  I took videos of them on my computer, so they could watch their performances.  They all were entertained and embarrassed watching the movies of themselves.  It took us several hours to practice, and we were all wiped out by the time we finished.  I spent the rest of the school day retyping their speeches and expanding on their ideas.  

Around 2:30, I wandered back home.  Aligegeo students are the designated choir for Sunday’s liturgy, and practice was held at Fanualama.  I went with Sr. Loretta while they rehearsed.  Their tone and the style of music is awesome.  I love listening to their voices.  Cayla had a long day at the hospital, full of operations and great experience.  Bishop Chris got back from Honiara in the afternoon.  He’ll be home for two days before venturing off again.  It’s nice to have him back!

After dinner, Sr. Loretta, Cayla, and I went to Aligegeo to meet with the students presenting tomorrow.  They delivered their speeches in the library, and then we went to the dining hall to check out the decorations.  Students, teachers, and members of the committee for the event were buzzing around, fastening palm leaves to the walls and arranging flowers.  Christina, who has become our good friend in the past two weeks, gave Cayla and I gifts.  She bought us each a beautiful bracelet and bright lavalava.  Christina included a heartfelt note.  I will be very sad to leave her in just a few days.  

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Today I joined Sr. Matilda for her weekly visit to Kindy.  It started raining on our walk over, but I’ve learned to always carry my umbrella with me for the sporadic showers.  The two of us arrived early, so I played with a few of the kids who were dropped off early.  One boy Joseph carried every single toy on the shelf over to me, so I was almost buried alive in old stuffed animals and blocks that were straight from a tree trunk.  I observed most of the class and helped with the young students.  After they had a snack, the teacher asked if I could teach them a few songs and rhymes.  Thirty adorable, wide-eyed children were soon singing the Barney theme song and The Itsy Bitsy Spider with gestures and accents.  The teachers were so happy to learn new songs.  I never thought my pre-school knowledge would come in handy.  It’s incredible how such little things make a big difference here.  By the time class ended, there were ten pickininnies at my heels poking me with books and toys to play with them.  They are all so eager and energetic.  I’m so glad I got a chance to spend time with them.

Sr. Matilda and I walked home in the rain, and I threw together a quick lunch before going to Aligegeo for the afternoon.  I helped a few Form 6 students with their essays for the speech contest on Friday.  Their work was impressive, considering English is their third language.  I feel spoiled and ignorant that I only speak English.  Language defines the people in Solomon Islands, and there are countless dialects throughout the country.  I typed their work on the school’s one computer and dazzled the teachers and students in the room with my typing abilities.  Computers are rarely used because they are scarce.  Typing is a hassle for them, so I offered my typing services to the teachers while I’m here.  It was funny how baffled they were. 

I left school around 4:00, and came home to an empty house.  I found Sr. Loretta and Agatha in the outdoor kitchen preparing the legendary pudding they’ve been talking about.  The process is involved but so interesting.  First, casava (like potatoes) is shredded by hand on a big grater.  The sisters grow casava in their garden.  Agatha milked the coconuts and heated stones on a crackling fire.  We lined a pan with large palm leaves then layered the casava and coconut milk.  More leaves were put on top, and we were ready to cook it.  The pan was placed on the coals and the heated stones were put on top of the leaves.  It heated for about and hour into the most delicious, satisfying pudding.  Agatha joined us for dinner and we feasted on our hard work.  

We just watched a movie together, and I’m exhausted.  Aligegeo students are preparing to sing the liturgy on Sunday, so I will fall asleep to their music and singing.

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

I trekked to school alone today because Sr. Loretta was getting her big toe checked out at Kilu’ufi.  I attended Technology class with Form 1 in the morning.  They were learning how to work with sheet metal.  Then, I gave out a few more snacks as prizes in my class.  The treats were well received.  I went home in the afternoon since my classes were finished, and dozed in the hammock next to the recovering Sr. Loretta.  When Cayla got home, we got creative for lunch since food supplies were running low.  

We got a lift to the Telecom and market by a priest who made a stop in Fanualama. It was a successful trip, and we stocked up on more peanut butter, chili sauce, and cucumbers.  We got all the ladies exercising again this afternoon - no heart attacks yet!  

Sandpaper cabbage was part of the dinner menu.  The sisters think its hilarious that Cayla and I enjoy this dish.  Apparently it’s a last resort type of meal, but we love it.  The four of us played cards after dinner, and Sr. Matilda quietly killed us all in “Phase 10.”  Today was a nice recovery from yesterday’s whirlwind!

Police and Babies

Monday, August 6, 2012

I will never have a Monday quite like this one.  Early morning wake up call, mass, breakfast, and Sr. Loretta and I were off to school.  The morning classes went well.  I’ve learned the effective and nourishing technique of bribing my students with food.  Whoever finished an assignment first and had all the correct answers got a pack of highly coveted cheese puffs.  My plan was a success, and now I feel obliged to bring a tasty treat every day.  Between periods, I really enjoy talking with the other teachers.  They are an interesting cast of characters, and I’ve learned a lot from speaking with them.  From joking around to learning about their higher educational experiences in Papua New Guinea, we’ve covered all topics sitting in our fluorescent pink plastic lawn chairs in the run down teachers room. 

At break time, Deputy announced that there would be an assembly for the entire school in the dining hall.  Before the assembly began, I got a tour of the kitchen.  Three huge vats are used to cook the rice, soup, and vegetables for the students.  A car full of cabbage arrived while I was looking around.  It was all to be cooked with dinner.  The assembly was called because the police were coming to give a talk to the students.  Several Aligegeo students have been reported to the police for crimes.  The police department and the school are going to work together to instill order.  If a student has a run in with the law, the Deputy will be notified immediately, and they will receive repercussions through Aligegeo and the Malaita police.  Four officers came and spoke about their roles in the community as well as inspirational words.  Their presence intimidated the students, but also challenged them to take their education seriously because wonderful opportunities exist.  

I left with Sr. Loretta before the assembly ended to go to Kilu’ufi.  She had to bring a student there, and I was happy to go check in on Cayla.  I waited with the student while Sr. took care of a few things.  I saw Cayla, and she had very exciting news.  A mother was going to have a C section in a few hours, and I was allowed to watch the surgery!  I was very excited to have a chance to observe the Solomon doctors and watch a baby’s birth.  It was 1:00, and we were told we had an hour to go home and have a little lunch before surgery.  We rushed back in a short, violent rain shower, and quickly ate Navy biscuits, pineapple, and cucumber.  Cayla and I reached the hospital at 2:15 with our scrubs and game faces on.  In standard Solomon fashion, we waited three hours for the procedure to begin.  

When things finally got going, I was the designated photographer.  There is absolutely no privacy in the hospitals here, and picture taking is encouraged.  Cayla assisted Dr. Solomon, a poised, slender woman with a whole lot of girl power.  Cayla helped the entire time, getting way more experience than would ever be allowed in the U.S.  Luckily, I wasn’t grossed out by the gore, and instead was extremely interested.  After layer upon layer of skin and muscle, Dr. Solomon and Cayla reached the baby.  A precious, healthy, delicate, crying little boy was born!  It was absolutely incredible.  He was cleaned and brought to a separate room while his mother was stitched back up.  The procedure took over two hours.  

After the surgery, Cayla and I went to look at the baby.  We peeked through a window at this tiny, innocent, beautiful boy.  It was serene to just look at this baby with the sounds of the jungle drifting into the room.  There was so much anticipation and action before and during the surgery.  Now the reason for it all was wrapped tightly in a blanket, sleeping.  He has his entire life ahead of him to grow, learn, love, and make his mother happy.  I was so awed by the miracle of this boy’s birth, I can’t imagine what it must be like for a mother.  Also, I realize how much hell my mom went through to get me here.  So thanks Mom!

Exhausted and hungry (yes, I had an appetite afterwards), Cayla and I called Sr. Loretta to find out if someone could pick us up.  It was dark, and we didn’t have flashlights or our body guard to guide us home.  Ben, who works closely with the bishop, Sr. Loretta, and Sr. Matilda and Agatha in the bed of the truck came to get us.  It was necessary for only Ben to come get us because he’s the one who can drive, but everyone just loves to come for the journey.  It’s great.  Cayla and I filled up on dinner and tried to process what just happened.  That was not something on my bucket list, but I guess I’ll write it in and cross it off. 

Sunday, August 5, 2012

It was luxurious to sleep in until 7:15 today.  We ate breakfast and put on our Sunday best.  The four of us walked to the cathedral for 9:00 mass.  This week I recognized many more faces of people in the congregation who I have gotten to know this week.  The boys we’ve been hanging out with are altar servers, lectors, and members of the choir.  Mass lasted just over an hour and announcements took about 20 minutes.  Cayla and I sat on benches outside with our friends for an hour and a half after the service, socializing and waiting for Bishop Chris.  When he emerged from his office, a truckload of us headed for Kilu’ufi Hospital.

Liberio built crutches for the two children in Kilu’ufi who were stuck in the hospital because they couldn’t walk with their casts.  On our way, we picked up the brand new crutches to deliver them.  Cayla gave the gift to Alick who was in a wheel chair for weeks and Rebecca who was lying in bed.  The two kids were excited, giggling, and eager to try out their new, liberating crutches.  Something that is so easily acquired in the US is hard to come by and very appreciated here in Malaita.  Tomorrow Alick and Rebecca will be discharged and can finally join their families at home.  We joined Bishop Chris and about ten other people from the parish to the other wards to distribute Holy Communion.  There is no privacy in the hospital.  Anyone can walk in and out, so all of us paraded around together.  Just the girls went to the maternity ward.  I got to see baby Cayla who is recovering from her fever and getting stronger every day.  

After visiting the sick, Bishop bought us all ice blocks (freeze pops) which were extremely refreshing in the heat of the morning.  At home, a bunch of students were using the sisters’ outdoor kitchen to prepare lunch for themselves.  They shared their coconut rice and we had the afternoon to relax.  At 4:30, Sr. Loretta, Sr. Matilda, Agatha, Cayla, and I did some exercise.  The ladies are so funny and enthusiastic about it.  We were sweating up a storm.  We had time to take a “swim” (shower) before evening prayer at 6.  Bishop Chris hosted us for dinner.  He made broiled chicken, and it was so nice to eat meat for the first time since we’ve been here.  We brought potatoes, cucumbers, and peppers for the celebration of St. Dominic’s Day.  It has been quite a week, but I’m ready for Monday and the business of the next few days.

Sensational Saturday

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Today was officially the happiest day of my life...until tomorrow.  I survived a heart attack this morning.  I was sitting at the kitchen table, minding my own business, waiting for the bell for mass, when I saw two rats clatter across the kitchen and hide behind the refrigerator.  I jumped on the chair for safety, then thought it was a better idea to run outside.  After this incident the wonderful parts of the day kicked in. 

Bishop drove us to market at 7:30.  I jumped out of the pickup when I spotted pineapples were being unloaded at the wharf.  There were great pickings this morning since Saturday is a huge market day.  Cayla and I got cucumbers, peppers, and bananas to round out the food shopping.  We then moved on to the jewelry table.  Angela, a woman from the parish, makes the most beautiful shell bracelets, necklaces, and earrings.   We cleaned out her display with gifts for ourselves, family, and friends.  We got back to Bishop Chris’ truck and he had bought casava chips for us.  They blow potato chips away, so Cayla and I happily munched on them on the ride home.  Back at the house, we made a CD for Richard to add to the gifts we bought for his birthday.  He is very talented with music, so we gave him a taste of our American jams.  At 10:30, it was picnic time.

Fr. Moses and Bishop Chris drove two truckloads of people to SeaSound Resort.  Thirty of us proved heavy cargo for the vehicles, but we survived the trip.  SeaSound is a very small resort with a few huts and a magnificent beach.  We went in the water immediately.  Shoes are necessary in the water because coral reef lines the bottom.  The snorkeling was incredible.  We all shared snorkels, taking turns paddling around.  The best part of all was I FOUND NEMO!  After a little while, the swimmers were rounded up for lunch.  We had chili taio (tuna) sandwiches, cucumber, pineapple, and I was privileged to sip a Solbrew, the official beer of the Solomons.  Bishop Chris got us up and moving after lunch for a boys vs. girls soccer game.  We were all laughing, falling, and getting some serious sand in our bathing suits.  Another long swim in the ocean was much needed after the game.  The beach was picture perfect, and I was so happy to spend time with my new friends (some double as my students).  I decided to go in to shore after I got my fill of salt water.  A few girls, led by Christina, and Joe taught us their village dance.  Sr. Loretta had the music playing, and Cayla and I entertained the crew with our own rendition of the dance.  We picked it up by the time we left.  Cayla was hilarious and will be giving up her dreams of PA school and instead auditioning for So You Think You Can Dance.

Just when I thought the day couldn’t get any better, Bishop told us we were going to the Fiu River for a “drive-in” car wash.  Car wash = bridge jumping.  At this point I think I was floating with happiness.  We all helped wash down the truck, and then got to play.  I had time to jump off four times with different people every jump.  My Fiu experiences have confirmed that if someone told me to jump off a bridge, I would most definitely do it.  In the back of the girls truck, driven by Fr. Moses, we sang songs the whole way home.  After a quick change out of wet bathing suits and shirts, we gathered in the new dining room hut for birthday festivities.  Richard’s friends brought out the cake and had sparklers.  Richard blew out the candles for his 19th birthday.  Everyone inhaled their delicious treat.  Several people had gifts for the birthday boy, which all came with a short speech.  Richard opened his presents, and I think he was very happy.  Cayla and I were excited because we bought him a backpack, soccer ball, and pack of chocolate chip cookies.  Today we noticed that he was using an old, pink, Disney princess backpack.  I think the new blue Nike is a good upgrade.

The next few hours we spent around the house, trying to process how unreal the day had been.  After evening prayer we ate peanut butter and banana sandwiches and papaya for dinner.  Saturdays are entertainment night at Aligegeo.  The theme was island dances, so students from the same villages present their village dances.  Patrick picked up Cayla and me when the show was about to begin.  We sat down next to Sr. Loretta to watch the performances, and she informed us that we would be doing the dance we learned earlier for the entire school.  When in Solomons, right?  So Cayla and I were led out back to join our new dance crew.  We paraded in to music and then did the entire village dance with the group.  I think the students will be amused for the next week.  We got a pretty big reaction from the crowd - I’m going to assume it was because we were naturals.  We actually remembered how to do everything, and Agatha told us we held our own.  Our act was followed by many more traditional dances by both boys and girls.  

Soon it was time to venture back home.  Sr. Loretta, Cayla, and I rehydrated and enjoyed a slice of papaya.  It is so fortunate that Cayla and I have the opportunity to be so immersed in the life here.  Bishop Chris and the sisters have helped us become involved in the culture and day to day activities.  A few more shades of tan, and I might pass as a local...I’ll keep on dreaming.

Friday, August 3, 2012

I surprisingly enjoyed a good night sleep behind the safety of my mosquito net and a little help from Benedryl.  We had a minor rat scare, which was major and traumatizing for me since I think I have a phobia of rats and mice.  Sr. Loretta, Cayla, and I were sitting in the living room before bed and we heard something jump and make a huge noise in the kitchen.  Sr. Loretta thought it was so funny and instructed me to pray to St. Martin de Porres to keep me safe from the rats.  Lets hope that works again tonight.

We ate papa (papayas), toast, and tea for breakfast following morning mass.  At school, I edited the essays four students wrote for the contest.  They will each receive $200 just for submitting an entry.  I’m starting to think I should have handed one in too.  I taught 3rd and 4th period.  We’re still learning about root words, and I know Mr. Bonagura would be very excited to hear that I made several Latin references.  After class, I typed and printed the contestants papers because they had to be submitted to an office in town by 4:00.  The students had a half day because the afternoon was devoted to a faculty meeting.  It started an hour late and lasted forever.  At 2:00, we got a lunch break and they provided coconuts and fish and chips.  I’m still getting used to the fact that its acceptable to bite off the top of the coconut and peel it with your teeth.  The meeting continued after we ate, and Sr. Loretta told me I could leave early.  Very thankful, I snuck out at 3:30.  Sr. didn’t get home until 6:30, so I’m very happy I was allowed to leave.

There was big news at school today.  Last night around midnight, four form 6 boys slaughtered the school big and cooked it.  They feasted on their kill and gave some of the pig to other students.  I wasn’t sure how to react when they told me this.  The teachers were upset and couldn’t believe the boys were so naughty.  I realize that it was very wrong, but was holding back laughter because it is such a foreign concept to me.  No schools around my home have a pig, and there is no way anyone would know how to slaughter and cook one.  It’s a completely different world here.  Everyone involved confessed and received punishment.  The boys who killed the pig have to pay $100 each and will be suspended for two weeks.  The students who ate the pig will pay $50.  The pig was supposed to be for the graduation celebration.  I almost don’t blame them for the infraction because they have rice for almost every meal, every day.  They rarely have fish or vegetables which is terrible for their health.  Dining services were discussed at the meeting today, and more money will be allocated for fresh produce.  

I fell asleep after I escaped from the meeting and thoroughly enjoyed the rest.  I woke up to the bell for evening prayer.  Sr. Matilda continues to cook delicious foods I have never tried before.  Tonight, we had a potato dish with coconut sauce.  I’m not sure if it’s possible to recreate these foods at home, but I will do my best.  After dinner, we baked a cake for Richard’s birthday celebration tomorrow.  Sr. Loretta just eye balled everything, so the cake is a concoction of self raising flour, eggs, powder milk, sugar, and butter.  No fancy ingredients.  Apparently Bishop Chris is the icing master, so he’ll work his magic tomorrow.  

The full moon tonight is breathtaking.  When the moon is bright, people here stay up late because there is light.  They talk and tell stories, and make the day last longer.

Thursday, August 2, 2012

For the past couple of mornings, I have woken up with a swollen right eye.  I felt pretty cool and intimidating for about five minutes, then it got annoying.  Cayla and I have concluded that I’m allergic to something in my bedroom, possibly the mosquito net or mold, because the puffiness is almost completely gone during the day.  I’m relocating to the living room with Sr. Loretta for a slumber party tonight.  Hopefully this will solve the problem because I’m quickly running out of Benedryl.  

I taught first and second period today.  It gets easier every day, and I’m learning better ways to teach the lessons.  It’s amazing how great it makes you feel as a teacher when students participate and ask questions.  I was afraid I was becoming a little bit like the teacher in Ferris Bueller, but maybe Miss Frizzle status is on the horizon.  After class, I took care of a few things for the essay contest.  I had downloaded relevant information for each student onto a cd in order to print it at the school, but of course they have the worst equipment and technology.  The computer didn’t even have a cd-rom drive, so another teacher disappeared for about an hour and came back with copies.  I’m not sure how it happened, but I was thankful.  I wrote an outline of questions and how to format an essay.  We’ll see how the students do when they hand in the papers tomorrow!

I got caught up talking with Jerome, a business teacher and the head of the finance committee.  He showed me a preliminary draft of Aligegeo’s five year plan.  They hope to refurbish or completely rebuild most of the facilities.  The dormitories where the students live are left over from WWII and are a sad sight.  The teachers’ room was completely flooded from the rains yesterday, soaking books and papers stored on the floor.  Other projects include a library, science lab, home economics room, dining hall, computer lab, etc.  It’s very overwhelming to digest everything that needs to be fixed and improved.  The finance committee is in the midst of developing an estimated budget.  It will be expensive and difficult to collect funding.  Jerome wanted to know if I could help raise money for their efforts.  Of course I will try to help, but it will be a matter of making sure the money goes into the right hands.  There is so much corruption, not only in the government (there was an election yesterday for a new representative for Parliament because the previous one was arrested on charges of stealing money), but with school staffs as well.  It would probably be most effective to donate supplies or send funds to Sr. Loretta to budget for the library or science lab.  The issues lie much deeper than not having enough money.  They involve acquiring the right materials, workers, and leadership.  Jerome’s explanations alerted me about the extensive work and time it takes to start rudimentary improvements.  He wants to retire in five years and is passionate about leaving the school better than he found it.

Cayla got home from the clinic at 1:45, so we got our things together and headed for town.  We caught the bus and stopped at the Telecom.  It was market time after that.  I had a big list of things that we’ll need for the next few days.  Along with the usual veggies, Cayla and I have been doing damage on the peanut butter, pineapple jam, and chili sauce so we bought reinforcements.  On Saturday, we are going to the beach for a picnic and also celebrating Richard’s birthday.  Richard is active in the parish and plays on the soccer team.  He is around Fanualama a lot, so Cayla and I are friendly with him.  Birthdays aren’t really celebrated in the Solomons, but Bishop Chris is going to host a little party for him after the picnic.  We bought ingredients for a basic cake, a soccer ball, and a backpack.  We were so excited to get Richard a few things that he ordinarily wouldn’t receive on his birthday.  Cayla and I saw Agatha, the housekeeper for Fanualama, in the market when we were at the jewelry table.  She picked out a bracelet for herself and promised to think of us when she wore it.  Weighed down by lots of groceries and gifts, we rode the bus back home.  

Cayla and I were motivated and did Insanity in the living room.  Quick showers, evening prayer, and it was dinner time.  Sr. Loretta was on duty at school, so the three of us chowed down.  One week later, I definitely feel at home here in Auki.

August 1, 2012

Today I joined Sr. Matilda for her Wednesday visit to Kindy, which is right next to the cathedral.  We walked there, dropping Chrisma off at her school on the way.  The kindy teacher was an hour late, so the kids were wreaking havoc by the time she arrived.  The next few hours were spent singing songs, making necklaces, and playing.  The beads for the necklaces were shells and colored straws that were cut into pieces.  I couldn’t communicate with the children with words because they can’t speak English at that age, so smiles and waves had to suffice.  They were all adorable in their green uniforms.

After Kindy, we prepared lunch and relaxed for a little while.  Sr. Loretta came home from Aligegeo with a job for me.  Several students are entering an essay contest and a speech contest.  For each category, students have to compose a paper about a particular topic.  I went to the Telecom to get information for their research on the internet.  I’ll give it to them in school tomorrow so they can start working on their assignments.  I will be working with each of the students to help prepare them for the ceremony where they will deliver their speeches to an audience.  It should be quite the challenge since most students I’ve taught so far are afraid to even raise their hand.  

Back at home, I played soccer on the lawn with some younger children and actually a few of my students.  I think thats allowed... We had our usual routine of evening prayer and dinner.  The four of us had a lot of laughs at the table.  I just had a little scare going out into the dark to take my laundry off the clothes line.  I stepped on a frog, screamed because I was so startled, and Sr. Loretta ran out with a broom.  

Tuesday, July 31, 2012

At mass this morning, Bishop Chris gave us an update about a missing canoe holding nine people.  The canoe left from Gizo, and among the passengers were a priest and two children.  Boat travel is the main method of transportation between islands that are often hundreds of kilometers apart.  When a boat or canoe misses it’s target destination, it can drift far into the Pacific Ocean.  We learned that the canoe from Gizo went missing two days ago.  Late last night, Bishop Chris got a call that five people swam ashore.  They were in the open water for over 24 hours.  The body of a 30 year old teacher from the Philippines who was engaged to be married in October washed ashore.  The other three, including the two children, have not been found and are presumed to be dead.  Unfortunately, this kind of tragedy is very common.  There is no safety equipment - life jackets, life rafts, etc - aboard.  So many people’s lives could be saved if precautions were mandatory and implemented.  It’s heartbreaking to think about the struggles of the passengers, alive and dead, as they tried to reach shore.

On a lighter note, Sr. Matilda cooked breakfast this morning.  We had pancakes which are made with just flour and water and are enormous.  The best way to eat these pancakes is rolled up with is honey and sliced papaya inside.  

Sr. Loretta and I made our way to school after cleaning up the kitchen.  We walk through the boys housing on the way, and as we approach, heads peek out of the doors and windows and shout “Morning Sister.  Morning Madame.”  It’s kind of awesome that people call me madame.  I’m thoroughly enjoying it.

I taught one of the Form 4 sections today.  It went really well, and the students are beginning to open up and offer answers.  I taught them different stems that are used commonly, like -cred, -fid, -mania.  We went through examples, then they had to create their own sentences.  The students are better at reading and writing English than speaking it.  I saw one boy had a great sentence written in his notebook, so I asked him to share it.  He was quiet for a second, then looked at me and whispered, “I can’t.  I’m scared.”  After some encouragement, he stood up and gave his answer to the class.  Some of these kids are really smart, and I think that if they build their confidence and public speaking abilities, they’ll excel in class.  There has already been great improvement, and I hope that the students come to recognize their own wonderful abilities.  

I did a few errands after school.  I stopped in the Telecom and went to the market - first solo trip.  Traveling with the sisters is definitely an advantage, but I got along just fine.  A bag full of cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, and fresh bread made the rest of the house very happy.  I walked the few kilometers home and had a serious sweat going on.  Cayla and Chrisma came in the house soon after, and we ate some of the fresh veggies and played inside while it poured outside.  Cayla and I took a quick nap before doing an Insanity work out video in the living room.  Sr. Loretta is going to join us next time.  I think a sisters aerobics video will be in the works within a few days.

After evening prayer, Bishop Chris took us out to dinner at the only restaurant in Auki.  They have served the same five menu items for the last eight years.  Nevertheless, it was delicious and we all enjoyed our time together.